{"id":155,"date":"2024-06-26T17:37:43","date_gmt":"2024-06-26T17:37:43","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/?p=155"},"modified":"2024-06-27T07:09:47","modified_gmt":"2024-06-27T07:09:47","slug":"dzien-5-boras-goteborg","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/2024\/06\/26\/dzien-5-boras-goteborg\/","title":{"rendered":"Dzie\u0144 5: Bor\u00e5s – G\u00f6teborg"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Dzi\u015b wczesna pobudka. W miejscu, w kt\u00f3rym mieszkam nie ma \u017cadnego sklepu czy kawiarni, a sko\u0144czy\u0142y mi si\u0119 zapasy. To oznacza, \u017ce \u015bniadanie zjem po drodze w Bor\u00e5s, 12 km st\u0105d. Pierwsze kawiarnie otwieraj\u0105 si\u0119 tam od 7. Poranna logistyka.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En: Today, I woke up early. There’s no shop or caf\u00e9 where I’m staying, and I’m out of supplies. This means I’ll have breakfast on the way in Bor\u00e5s. The first caf\u00e9s open at 7, and I have 12 km to ride. Morning logistics.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Musz\u0119 przyzna\u0107, \u017ce spodoba\u0142o mi si\u0119 to miejsce. P\u00f3\u0142 godziny w saunie, potem zimny prysznic i cisza przerywana tylko \u015bpiewem ptak\u00f3w. Wieczorem P\u00e4r przyszed\u0142 zaproponowa\u0107 k\u0105piel w basenie w ogrodzie, ale podzi\u0119kowa\u0142em. Natomiast uci\u0119li\u015bmy sobie pogaw\u0119dk\u0119 o geografii okolicy, historii Szwecji i turystach, kt\u00f3rzy tu przyje\u017cd\u017caj\u0105. Moglem te\u017c wprowadzi\u0107 rower pod dach, co zawsze robi\u0119 je\u015bli jest taka mo\u017cliwo\u015b\u0107 (zawsze to jedna rzecz mniej do martwienia si\u0119).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En: I have to admit, I really liked this place. Half an hour in the sauna, followed by a cold shower and the silence broken only by birdsong. In the evening, P\u00e4r came over to offer a dip in the garden pool, but I declined. Instead, we had a chat about the local geography, the history of Sweden, and the tourists who visit here. I was also able to bring my bike under the roof, which I always do if possible (one less thing to worry about).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Ale czas jecha\u0107 dalej. Przed wyj\u015bciem obowi\u0105zkowy wpis w ksi\u0105\u017cce go\u015bci. S\u0105dz\u0105c po ilo\u015bci wpis\u00f3w Marie i P\u00e4r maj\u0105 ci\u0105g\u0142y ruch w interesie (co mnie szczeg\u00f3lnie nie dziwi). Ciekawe, \u017ce w dobie opinii w internecie, niekt\u00f3rzy wci\u0105\u017c kultywuj\u0105 tradycj\u0119 odr\u0119cznych wpis\u00f3w w ksi\u0119gach go\u015bci. Jest w tym jaka\u015b magia, cho\u0107 spe\u0142nia zupe\u0142nie inny cel ni\u017c feedback na booking.com.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En: But it’s time to move on. Before leaving, it’s obligatory to make an entry in the guestbook. Judging by the number of entries, Marie and P\u00e4r have a steady stream of guests (which doesn’t surprise me). It’s interesting that in the age of online reviews, some people still maintain the tradition of handwritten entries in guestbooks. There’s a certain magic to it, even though it serves a completely different purpose than feedback on booking.com.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

P\u00f3\u0142 godziny p\u00f3\u017aniej siedz\u0119 w kawiarni i \u0142aduj\u0119 akumulatory. Kaloriami i kaw\u0105. \u015aniadanie jem w najstarszej wci\u0105\u017c czynnej kawiarni w Bor\u00e5s – Orion Cafe, kt\u00f3ra istnieje od lat 30.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En: Half an hour later, I’m sitting in a caf\u00e9 recharging my batteries with calories and coffee. I’m having breakfast at Orion Cafe, the oldest still-operating caf\u00e9 in Bor\u00e5s, which has been around since the 1930s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Nazwa Bor\u00e5s, jak podaje szwedzka Wikipedia, pochodzi prawdopodobnie od zagr\u00f3d pasterskich na wzg\u00f3rzu ko\u0142o miasta – F\u00e4bodar\u00e5sen (F\u00e4bodar – zagrody pasterskie, \u00e5sen – wzg\u00f3rze), kt\u00f3re przekszta\u0142ci\u0142o si\u0119 z czasem w Bodar\u00e5sen (wzg\u00f3rze Bodar), a ostatecznie w Bor\u00e5s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En: The name Bor\u00e5s, according to Swedish Wikipedia, probably comes from the shepherd’s huts on the hill near the city\u2014F\u00e4bodar\u00e5sen (F\u00e4bodar – shepherd’s huts, \u00e5sen – hill), which eventually transformed into Bodar\u00e5sen (Bodar hill), and finally into Bor\u00e5s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Ratusz w Bor\u00e5s \/ City hall in Bor\u00e5s<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Na drodze wylotowej udaje mi si\u0119 znale\u015b\u0107 sklep i uzupe\u0142ni\u0107 zapasy. W tym Voltaren na kostk\u0119, kt\u00f3ra boli mnie od wczoraj. Mam nadziej\u0119, \u017ce pomo\u017ce. Kupuj\u0105c ma\u015b\u0107 wspinam si\u0119 na wy\u017cyny mojego angielsko-migowego, bo pani w aptece m\u00f3wi tylko po szwedzku. Kiedy w ko\u0144cu udaje nam si\u0119 dogada\u0107, a ja p\u0142ac\u0119 za lekarstwo, z moich ust samo wylatuje \u201ejag vet Voltaren, eftersom jag \u00e4r fr\u00e5n Polen och det finns d\u00e4r ocks\u00e5.\u201d Chcia\u0142bym mie\u0107 wi\u0119cej odwagi do m\u00f3wienia po szwedzku, bo czasem mi nawet co\u015b tam wychodzi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En: On the way out of the city, I manage to find a store and restock my supplies, including Voltaren for my ankle, which has been hurting since yesterday. I hope it helps. Buying the ointment, I reach the heights of my English-sign language skills, as the pharmacist only speaks Swedish. When we finally understand each other and I pay for the medicine, I find myself saying, “Jag vet Voltaren, eftersom jag \u00e4r fr\u00e5n Polen och det finns d\u00e4r ocks\u00e5.” I wish I had more courage to speak Swedish because sometimes I can manage quite well.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Dzisiejszy odcinek biegnie bocznymi drogami wzd\u0142u\u017c autostrady. Krajobraz powoli przechodzi z rolniczego w rolniczo-przemys\u0142owy. Jest do\u015b\u0107 pusto, nie licz\u0105c raptem dw\u00f3ch stacji benzynowych z obs\u0142ug\u0105 (reszta stacji w pe\u0142ni automatyczna). Na jednym z postoj\u00f3w pr\u00f3buj\u0119 zrobi\u0107 zdj\u0119cie Kolubryny z Cadillakiem i n\u00f3\u017cka zn\u00f3w p\u0119ka. Jednak naprawa kropelk\u0105 okaza\u0142a si\u0119 nieskuteczna. Kolubryna musi stan\u0105\u0107 w pewnej odleg\u0142o\u015bci, oparta o kraw\u0119\u017cnik.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En: Today’s segment runs along side roads parallel to the highway. The landscape gradually shifts from agricultural to agro-industrial. It’s quite empty, except for just two serviced gas stations (the rest are fully automated). During one of the stops, I try to take a picture of Kolubryna with a Cadillac, and the kickstand breaks again. The super glue repair proved ineffective. Kolubryna has to stand at a distance, propped against the curb.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Sko\u0144czy\u0142y mi si\u0119 lembasy, ale zast\u0105pi\u0142em je wypiekiem bu\u0142kopodobnym z ICA. Robi\u0105 to jakby z my\u015bl\u0105 o rowerzystach bo bu\u0142ki s\u0105 od razu przekrojone, wystarczy co\u015b po\u0142o\u017cy\u0107 i kalorie gotowe do wch\u0142oni\u0119cia (oczywi\u015bcie z kaw\u0105). Moje drugie \u015bniadanie wygl\u0105da dzi\u015b tak.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En: I’m out of lembas, but I’ve replaced them with a bun-like pastry from ICA. It’s as if they made it with cyclists in mind because the buns are pre-sliced, just add something on top, and the calories are ready to be consumed (of course, with coffee). My second breakfast looks like this today.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Ostatnie kilometry nieco mi si\u0119 d\u0142u\u017c\u0105. Jest do\u015b\u0107 p\u0142asko, porz\u0105dna droga, pi\u0119kna pogoda. Nie mo\u017cna by ju\u017c po prostu by\u0107 na miejscu? – my\u015bl\u0119 sobie. Przypomina mi si\u0119 rozmowa rowerzyst\u0105 z Australii, kt\u00f3rego spotka\u0142em w schronisku w Wielkim Tyrnowie w Bu\u0142garii. Siedzieli\u015bmy przy d\u0142ugim stole, wszyscy go\u015bcie schroniska. On opowiada\u0142, \u017ce chcia\u0142 wybra\u0107 si\u0119 na Islandi\u0119 i zdecydowa\u0142 si\u0119 pojecha\u0107 tam rowerem. To znaczy te kawa\u0142ki, kt\u00f3re da si\u0119 pokona\u0107 rowerem oczywi\u015bcie, odcinki morskie pokonywa\u0142 promem. \u201eDlaczego rowerem? Nie mog\u0142e\u015b po prostu polecie\u0107?\u201d – pytali wszyscy (ze mn\u0105 w\u0142\u0105cznie). Powiedzia\u0142, \u017ce w samolocie\u2026 there\u2019s no feeling of transition. Wsiadasz w jednej pogodzie, wysiadasz w innej. Wsiadasz z jednej kultury, wysiadasz do innej. Nie odczuwasz gradientu zmiany, nie czujesz przemieszczenia ani odleg\u0142o\u015bci. Zapami\u0119ta\u0142em to zdanie, bo sporo m\u00f3wi o nas, ludziach, w XXI wieku. Jak bardzo jeste\u015bmy niecierpliwi i chcieliby\u015bmy mie\u0107 wszystko czego zapragniemy od razu. Bez tranzycji, bez dochodzenia do tego. Tak jak ja teraz chcia\u0142bym by\u0107 na miejscu. Podczas gdy droga jest elementem do\u015bwiadczenia. Te do\u015bwiadczenia potem b\u0119d\u0119 wspomina\u0142, nie szybkie osi\u0105gni\u0119cie celu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En: The last few kilometers are dragging a bit. It’s quite flat, the road is good, the weather is beautiful. “Couldn’t I just be there already?” I think to myself. I remember a conversation with a cyclist from Australia whom I met at a hostel in Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria. We were sitting at a long table with all the hostel guests. He was telling us that he wanted to go to Iceland and decided to cycle there. That is, the parts that could be cycled, of course, he took ferries for the sea stretches. “Why by bike? Couldn’t you just fly?” everyone asked (myself included). He said that on a plane, there\u2019s no feeling of transition. You get on in one weather, get off in another. You get on in one culture, get off in another. You don’t feel the gradient of change, you don’t feel the movement or the distance. I remembered that sentence because it says a lot about us, people, in the 21st century. How impatient we are and how we want everything we desire immediately. Without transition, without getting there gradually. Just like I want to be at my destination now. But the journey is part of the experience. These experiences are what I will remember, not the quick achievement of the goal.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Poza tym s\u0105 te\u017c widoki.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En: Besides, there are also the views.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Kolubryna nad Landvettersj\u00f6n \/ Kolubryna at Landvettersj\u00f6n Lake<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Doje\u017cd\u017cam do G\u00f6teborga. Je\u015bli nigdy nie mieli\u015bcie styczno\u015bci ze szwedzkim to zapewne zdziwi was, \u017ce nazwa tego miasta po szwedzku brzmi joeteborji i nie s\u0142ycha\u0107 w niej ani jednego \u201eg\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En: I arrive in G\u00f6teborg (Gothenburg). If you’ve never encountered Swedish before, you’ll probably be surprised that the name of this city in Swedish is pronounced “Yoe-te-bor-ee” and you don’t hear a single “g” in it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Od lewej: Kolubryna, G\u00f6teborg i Maciek \/ From the left: Kolubryna, G\u00f6teborg and Maciek<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Przedmie\u015bcia robi\u0105 bardzo sympatyczne wra\u017cenie z nisk\u0105 zabudow\u0105, uspokojonym ruchem, mn\u00f3stwem zieleni.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En: The suburbs make a very pleasant impression with their low-rise buildings, calm traffic, and lots of greenery.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Ale jad\u0119 dalej do centrum, w poszukiwaniu mojego hostelu. Robi si\u0119 g\u0119sto, t\u0142oczno i g\u0142o\u015bno. Czuj\u0119 si\u0119 przyt\u0142oczony nat\u0142okiem bod\u017ac\u00f3w. My\u015bl\u0119 sobie, \u017ce przecie\u017c G\u00f6teborg jest mniejszy od Sztokholmu, musia\u0142em zdzicze\u0107 na tej prowincji, skoro 15 minut jazdy po mie\u015bcie sprawia, \u017ce mam takie reakcje. W ko\u0144cu doje\u017cd\u017cam na miejsce zupe\u0142nie przebod\u017acowany.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En: But I continue to the city center, looking for my hostel. It gets denser, more crowded, and louder. I feel overwhelmed by the multitude of stimuli. I think to myself that Gothenburg is smaller than Stockholm, so I must have gotten wild on this rural journey if 15 minutes of city riding affects me like this. Finally, I arrive at my destination, completely overstimulated.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Udaje mi si\u0119 zameldowa\u0107 w hostelu i po ogarni\u0119ciu logistyki ruszam na poszukiwanie sklepu rowerowego gdzie dostan\u0119 now\u0105 n\u00f3\u017ck\u0119. W dw\u00f3ch sklepach dowiaduj\u0119 si\u0119, \u017ce nie maj\u0105 n\u00f3\u017cek do tak ci\u0119\u017ckich rower\u00f3w. Poza tym, \u017ce moja rama nie ma standardowych mocowa\u0144. Ale polecaj\u0105 \u017cebym spr\u00f3bowa\u0142 w serwisie Veloform<\/a> kilka przecznic dalej. Jad\u0119 tam i znajduj\u0119 serwis prowadzony przez pasjonata, z kt\u00f3rym momentalnie zaczynamy rozmawia\u0107 o wyprawach, spaniu pod go\u0142ym niebem, wietrze w Danii, smarowaniu \u0142a\u0144cucha\u2026 p\u0142ynnie przechodzimy do rozmowy o n\u00f3\u017ckach, po kt\u00f3rej decyduj\u0119 si\u0119 odpu\u015bci\u0107 zakup n\u00f3\u017cki (przy okazji dowiaduj\u0119 si\u0119, \u017ce mam niew\u0142a\u015bciwie roz\u0142o\u017cony ci\u0119\u017car na ramie – do poprawki nast\u0119pnym razem).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En: I manage to check into the hostel and, after sorting out the logistics, I set out to find a bike shop where I can get a new kickstand. In two shops, I learn that they don’t have kickstands for such heavy bikes. Additionally, my frame doesn’t have standard mounts. However, they recommend I try the Veloform<\/a> service a few blocks away. I head there and find a shop run by an enthusiast. We instantly start talking about trips, sleeping under the stars, wind in Denmark, lubing chains\u2026 We smoothly transition to talking about kickstands, after which I decide to forgo buying a new one (I also learn that my load distribution on the frame is incorrect\u2014something to fix next time).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Prosz\u0119 jeszcze o wykonanie szybkiego przegl\u0105du pod k\u0105tem reszty wyprawy. W\u0142a\u015bciciel serwisu nazywa si\u0119 Anders Jansson. Podnosi m\u00f3j rower i wiesza go na haku serwisowym, a sam siada i analizuje po kolei wszystkie ruchome elementy mojego roweru. Tu – m\u00f3wi – wida\u0107, \u017ce w og\u00f3le nie u\u017cywasz czterech najwi\u0119kszych z\u0119batek. U\u017cywaj, albo kup sobie inn\u0105 kaset\u0119 z mniejsz\u0105 liczb\u0105 bieg\u00f3w. Tu \u0142a\u0144cuch za bardzo nasmarowany, lej mniej smaru, ale cz\u0119\u015bciej. Czy\u015bci \u0142a\u0144cuch i pokazuje jak smarowa\u0107. Tu ok\u0142adziny hamulca nier\u00f3wnomiernie starte, wymieniamy? Wymieniamy. Po p\u00f3\u0142 godzinie wszystko jest gotowe. Nie przywyk\u0142em do takiego traktowania, gdzie wchodz\u0119 z ulicy pytaniem, potem prosz\u0119 o serwis i nie do\u015b\u0107 \u017ce go dostaje to jeszcze dodatkowo otrzymuj\u0119 lekcj\u0119 serwisowania roweru i pogaw\u0119dk\u0119 o wyprawach rowerowych. Gor\u0105co polecam ten serwis je\u015bli b\u0119dziecie kiedy\u015b w G\u00f6teborgu. By\u0142em pod takim wra\u017ceniem, \u017ce poprosi\u0142em Andersa o wsp\u00f3lne zdj\u0119cie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En: I ask for a quick check-up for the rest of my trip. His name is Anders Jansson. He picks up my bike, hangs it on the service hook, sits down, and analyzes all the moving parts of my bike one by one. “Here,” he says, “it’s clear you never use the four largest gears. Use them or get a different cassette with fewer speeds. Here, the chain is over-lubricated, use less lube but more frequently.” He cleans the chain and shows me how to lube it. “Here, the brake pads are unevenly worn, should we replace them?” We replace them. After half an hour, everything is ready. I’m not used to such treatment, where I walk in from the street with a question, then ask for service and not only get it but also receive a lesson in bike maintenance and a chat about bike trips. I highly recommend this service if you’re ever in Gothenburg. I was so impressed that I asked Anders for a photo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Anders, wla\u015bciciel serwisu Veloform \/ Anders, owner of Veloform bike service <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Czas zacz\u0105\u0107 odpoczywa\u0107. Jutro przerwa w peda\u0142owaniu. Robi\u0119 sobie jeden dzie\u0144 regeneracji, moje nogi na niego zas\u0142u\u017cy\u0142y. A korzystaj\u0105c z faktu, \u017ce jestem w du\u017cym mie\u015bcie z dobrze zaopatrzonymi sklepami, regeneracj\u0119 zaczynam tak.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En: It’s time to start resting. Tomorrow is a break from cycling. I’m giving myself a day for recovery, and my legs have earned it. Taking advantage of being in a big city with well-stocked stores, I’m starting my recovery like this.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Du\u017ce miasta maj\u0105 swoje zalety \/ Big cities have their pluses<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Feeling of transition w drodze do G\u00f6teborga.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":157,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[3],"class_list":["post-155","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized","tag-sverige"],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/06\/img_6506-1-2.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/155","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=155"}],"version-history":[{"count":10,"href":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/155\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":166,"href":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/155\/revisions\/166"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/157"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=155"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=155"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=155"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}