{"id":203,"date":"2024-06-28T19:16:23","date_gmt":"2024-06-28T19:16:23","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/2024\/06\/28\/dzien-7-goteborg-skagen\/"},"modified":"2024-06-28T19:16:23","modified_gmt":"2024-06-28T19:16:23","slug":"dzien-7-goteborg-skagen","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/2024\/06\/28\/dzien-7-goteborg-skagen\/","title":{"rendered":"Dzie\u0144 7: G\u00f6teborg – Skagen"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

W nocy nad Majorn\u0105 przesz\u0142a ulewa. Na szcz\u0119\u015bcie wczoraj sprawdzi\u0142em prognoz\u0119 pogody i zd\u0105\u017cy\u0142em przestawi\u0107 rower pod dach. Ucieszy\u0142em si\u0119 rano kiedy zobaczy\u0142em such\u0105 Kolubryn\u0119. Nie wiedzia\u0142em jeszcze wtedy co mnie czeka kilka godzin p\u00f3\u017aniej \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En: Last night, a downpour swept over Majorna. Fortunately, I checked the weather forecast yesterday and managed to move my bike under a roof. I was happy this morning when I saw a dry Kolubryna. Little did I know what awaited me a few hours later \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Po\u017cegnanie z hostelem STF Stigbergsliden w G\u00f6teborgu \/ Farewell to the STF Stigbergsliden hostel in Gothenburg.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Prom z Geteb\u00f6rga do Frederikshavn p\u0142ynie 3.5 godziny. W sam raz \u017ceby uzupe\u0142ni\u0107 kalorie i kofein\u0119. I ewentualnie odrobin\u0119 si\u0119 zdrzemn\u0105\u0107.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En: The ferry from Gothenburg to Frederikshavn takes 3.5 hours. Just enough time to replenish calories and caffeine. And perhaps take a little nap.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Kawa\u0142ek ska\u0142y w tle to w istocie nieczynny ju\u017c fort Oskar II, cz\u0119\u015b\u0107 fortyfikacji chroni\u0105cej G\u00f6teborg z pocz\u0105tku XX wieku \/ The piece of rock in the background is actually the now inactive Fort Oscar II, part of the fortifications protecting Gothenburg from the early 20th century.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Docieram do Frederikshavn. Miasto by\u0142o kiedy\u015b wiosk\u0105 ryback\u0105 i nazywa\u0142o si\u0119 Fladstrand (P\u0142aska pla\u017ca). Ale strategiczne po\u0142o\u017cenie nad Cie\u015bninami Du\u0144skimi sprawi\u0142o, \u017ce jego znaczenie szybko ros\u0142o. Wojny P\u00f3\u0142nocne nie tylko przyspieszy\u0142y rozw\u00f3j portu cywilnego (kursy do Norwegii w zwi\u0105zku ze szwedzkimi blokadami pozosta\u0142ych du\u0144skich port\u00f3w), ale i rozw\u00f3j miejskich fortyfikacji. W ko\u0144cu w 1818 roku kr\u00f3l Frederik VI nadal miastu status miasta handlowego pod nazw\u0105 Frederikshavn (Port Frederika). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

En: I arrive in Frederikshavn. The city was once a fishing village called Fladstrand (Flat Beach). However, its strategic location on the Danish Straits quickly increased its significance. The Northern Wars not only accelerated the development of the civilian port (with routes to Norway due to Swedish blockades of other Danish ports) but also the development of the city’s fortifications. Finally, in 1818, King Frederick VI granted it the status of a market town under the name Frederikshavn (Frederik’s Port).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Zje\u017cd\u017cam z promu i od razu ruszam w tras\u0119. Zatrzymuj\u0119 si\u0119 tylko na moment obejrze\u0107 rotund\u0119 Krudtt\u00e5rnet (wie\u017ca prochu). Zbudowana pod koniec XVII wieku jako cz\u0119\u015b\u0107 fortyfikacji miejskich w reakcji na rosn\u0105ce zagro\u017cenie ze strony Szwecji. S\u0142u\u017cy\u0142a jako magazyn prochu, jej pot\u0119\u017cne mury mia\u0142y chroni\u0107 przechowywany wewn\u0105trz proch i amunicj\u0119 przed ostrza\u0142em z zewn\u0105trz.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En: I disembark from the ferry and immediately set off on my route. I stop only for a moment to see the Krudtt\u00e5rnet (Powder Tower). Built in the late 17th century as part of the city’s fortifications in response to the growing threat from Sweden, it served as a gunpowder magazine. Its thick walls were designed to protect the gunpowder and ammunition stored inside from external shelling.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Krudtt\u00e5rnet (wie\u017ca prochu) \/ Krudtt\u00e5rnet (Powder Tower)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Wyje\u017cd\u017cam z miasta, ale podmiejski charakter zabudowy utrzymuje si\u0119 jeszcze dobrych kilkana\u015bcie kilometr\u00f3w. Jest w tej zabudowie co\u015b skandynawskiego, ale nie przypomina to stylu, kt\u00f3ry znam ze Szwecji. Styl nie jest jednolity i nie widz\u0119 w nim charakterystycznego akcentu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En: I leave the city, but the suburban character of the buildings continues for a good several kilometers. There is something Scandinavian about this architecture, but it doesn’t resemble the style I’m familiar with from Sweden. The style isn’t uniform, and I don’t see a distinctive accent.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Chwil\u0119 potem zaczyna si\u0119 krajobraz rolniczy. I po raz pierwszy uderza mnie jak bardzo Jutlandia P\u00f3\u0142nocna jest p\u0142aska! Kiedy zobaczy\u0142em poni\u017cszy obrazek, pomy\u015bla\u0142em \u017ce znam ten widok z Mazowsza. Mi\u0142a odmiana po pag\u00f3rkowatej Szwecji.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En: Shortly after, the landscape transitions to agricultural. For the first time, I’m struck by how flat Northern Jutland is! When I saw the scene below, I thought I recognized it from Mazovia. A nice change after hilly Sweden.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Mazowsze? Nie, Jutlandia P\u00f3\u0142nocna \/ Mazovia? No, Northern Jutland.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Zbli\u017cam si\u0119 do Skagen, a po obu stronach drogi zaczynaj\u0105 pojawia\u0107 si\u0119 wydmy. Ci\u0105gn\u0105 si\u0119 przez kilka kilometr\u00f3w, tworz\u0105c pustynno-ksi\u0119\u017cycowy krajobraz.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En: I’m approaching Skagen, and dunes are starting to appear on both sides of the road. They stretch for several kilometers, creating a desert-moonlike landscape.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Wydmy przy \u015bcie\u017cce rowerowej do Skagen \/ Dunes along the bike path to Skagen.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Skagen. Pierwsze, co rzuca si\u0119 w oczy, to sp\u00f3jny i bardzo charakterystyczny styl architektoniczny, na kt\u00f3rego brak narzeka\u0142em kilka zda\u0144 wcze\u015bniej. Wi\u0119kszo\u015b\u0107 dom\u00f3w mieszkalnych jest w podobnym stylu z \u017c\u00f3\u0142t\u0105 fasad\u0105 i dachem krytym czerwon\u0105 dach\u00f3wk\u0105.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En: Skagen. The first thing that stands out is the cohesive and very distinctive architectural style, which I was missing a few sentences earlier. Most residential houses are in a similar style with yellow facades and roofs covered with red tiles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
\u017b\u00f3\u0142te domy w Skagen \/ Yellow houses in Skagen<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
Ko\u015bci\u00f3\u0142 w Skagen z pocz\u0105tku XX wieku \/ The church in Skagen from the beginning of 20th century<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Kiedy po obiedzie podchodz\u0119 do roweru \u017ceby go odbezpieczy\u0107, widz\u0119 na chodniku faceta z laptopem, przy kt\u00f3rym le\u017cy rower. Wszystko w porz\u0105dku? – pytam. Taak, kradn\u0119 tylko internet z pobliskiej restauracji, bo m\u00f3j internet w kom\u00f3rce jest g**niany. Rozmawiamy o swoich wyprawach, o Danii i Szwecji (mieszka w Szwecji), ale i o Holandii z kt\u00f3rej pochodzi. \u201eHolandia to g**wno, m\u00f3wi. Najgorszy kraj na \u015bwiecie. Wszystko opiera si\u0119 o banki, o rynek finansowy, reszta le\u017cy. Specjali\u015bci wyje\u017cd\u017caj\u0105. Ekolodzy parali\u017cuj\u0105 ruchy rz\u0105du, nikt nikomu nie ufa\u2026\u201d. Udaje mi si\u0119 zmieni\u0107 temat, rozmawiamy o wyprawie na Cape North (na kt\u00f3rej by\u0142, a na kt\u00f3r\u0105 ja chc\u0119 kiedy\u015b pojecha\u0107), rozmawiamy o mojej wyprawie, kt\u00f3r\u0119dy b\u0119d\u0119 jecha\u0142. M\u00f3wi\u0119 mu, \u017ce przeje\u017cd\u017cam przez miejscowo\u015b\u0107 o nazwie Zwolle w Holandii. I s\u0142ysz\u0119 w odpowiedzi o wspania\u0142ym jeziorze, na brzegu kt\u00f3rego rozci\u0105ga si\u0119 niepowtarzalny park narodowy, w kt\u00f3rym rosn\u0105 kwiaty przypominaj\u0105ce mu jego dzieci\u0144stwo, a za parkiem jest wzg\u00f3rze na kt\u00f3re koniecznie musz\u0119 si\u0119 wdrapa\u0107 bo wida\u0107 stamt\u0105d krajobraz, kt\u00f3rego nie ma nigdzie indziej na \u015bwiecie, a jeszcze dalej – ci\u0105gnie – mo\u017cna przespacerowa\u0107 si\u0119 p\u0142askim jak st\u00f3\u0142 kawa\u0142kiem ziemi, kt\u00f3ra le\u017cy 3 metry pod poziomem morza\u2026 przerywam mu, bo musz\u0119 jecha\u0107, ale na koniec rzucam: – Wiesz co? Powiniene\u015b si\u0119 czasem pos\u0142ucha\u0107. Opowiadasz mi o najwspanialszym miejscu na \u015bwiecie, a przed chwil\u0105 m\u00f3wi\u0142e\u015b o nim, \u017ce to g**wno. Chwil\u0119 milczy wpatrzony w sw\u00f3j laptop, po czym spogl\u0105da na mnie i m\u00f3wi: – Cholera, masz racj\u0119. Pomy\u015bl\u0119 o tym. \u017byczymy sobie powodzenia w dalszej drodze i rozstajemy si\u0119.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En: When I approach my bike after lunch to unlock it, I see a guy with a laptop sitting on the sidewalk next to his bike. “Everything alright?” I ask. “Yeah, I’m just stealing some internet from the nearby restaurant because my mobile internet is crap,” he replies. We talk about our travels, Denmark and Sweden (he lives in Sweden), but also about the Netherlands, where he’s from. “The Netherlands is crap,” he says. “The worst country in the world. Everything revolves around banks and the financial market, the rest is a mess. Specialists are leaving. Environmentalists paralyze government actions, no one trusts anyone\u2026”. I manage to change the subject, and we talk about a trip to Cape North (which he has done, and I want to do someday). We talk about my journey and the route I’ll be taking. I tell him that I’ll be passing through a town called Zwolle in the Netherlands. In response, he tells me about a wonderful lake, by which lies a unique national park where flowers grow that remind him of his childhood. Beyond the park is a hill I must climb because the view from there is like nowhere else in the world, and even further, he continues, you can walk on a flat piece of land that lies 3 meters below sea level\u2026 I interrupt him because I have to go, but I say: “You know what? You should listen to yourself sometimes. You’re telling me about the most wonderful place in the world, and just a moment ago, you said it was crap.” He falls silent, staring at his laptop, then looks at me and says, “Damn, you’re right. I’ll think about it.” We wish each other luck on our journeys and part ways.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Niesamowite dla mnie jest to, jak \u0142atwo jest zredukowa\u0107 do zera dystans do drugiego rowerzysty w trasie. Codziennie zdarza mi si\u0119 rozmawia\u0107 rowerzystami i regularnie w kilka minut mo\u017cemy rozmawia\u0107 o sprawach, o kt\u00f3rych czasem mia\u0142bym trudno\u015b\u0107 rozmawia\u0107 z lud\u017ami, kt\u00f3rych znam do\u015b\u0107 d\u0142ugo. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

En: What amazes me is how easy it is to reduce the distance to another cyclist on the road to zero. Every day, I find myself talking to cyclists, and within a few minutes, we can discuss matters that I might sometimes struggle to talk about with people I’ve known for quite a while.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ka\u017cdy kraj ma sw\u00f3j koniec. Niekt\u00f3re maj\u0105 dwa, albo i wi\u0119cej. Problem z nimi jest taki, \u017ce nie do ko\u0144ca wiadomo ile ich jest. Bo te\u017c ka\u017cdy mo\u017ce za koniec bra\u0107 co\u015b innego. Ja na przyk\u0142ad znam przynajmniej dwa ko\u0144ce Polski: jeden na Helu (koniec p\u00f3\u0142wyspu), a drugi w Bieszczadach (\u017ar\u00f3d\u0142a Sanu). Wy zapewne znacie znacznie wi\u0119cej ko\u0144c\u00f3w Polski. Ale koniec, o kt\u00f3rym dzi\u015b opowiem jest ko\u0144cem Danii i nazywa si\u0119 Grenen (ga\u0142\u0105\u017a). Jest to d\u0142uga piaszczysta mierzeja, kt\u00f3ra wcina si\u0119 w morze. Kiedy planowa\u0142em tras\u0119 pomy\u015bla\u0142em sobie – by\u0107 w Danii i nie by\u0107 na ko\u0144cu Danii? – nie wypada. Wi\u0119c w\u0142\u0105czy\u0142em Grenen do trasy. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

En: Every country has its end. Some have two, or even more. The problem with them is that it’s not entirely clear how many there are. Everyone can consider something different as the end. For example, I know at least two ends of Poland: one in Hel (the end of the peninsula) and another in the Bieszczady Mountains (the source of the San River). You probably know many more ends of Poland. But the end I will tell you about today is the end of Denmark, and it’s called Grenen (the branch). It’s a long sandy spit that juts into the sea. When I was planning the route, I thought to myself\u2014being in Denmark and not visiting the end of Denmark? That wouldn’t do. So, I included Grenen in the route.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
W drodze na Grenen \/ On my way to Grenen<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Wed\u0142ug znanego i lubianego polskiego filmu, \u017ceby by\u0142o fajnie wcale nie musi by\u0107 bunkr\u00f3w. A tu s\u0105. Wok\u00f3\u0142 Grenen Niemcy w czasie drugiej wojny \u015bwiatowej zbudowali system umocnie\u0144, kt\u00f3ry by\u0142 cz\u0119\u015bci\u0105 tzw. Wa\u0142u Atlantyckiego, kt\u00f3ry mia\u0142 chroni\u0107 okupowane tereny przed alianck\u0105 inwazj\u0105.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En: According to a well-known and loved Polish film, for something to be cool, there doesn’t have to be any bunkers. But here, there are. Around Grenen, the Germans built a system of fortifications during World War II, which was part of the so-called Atlantic Wall, designed to protect occupied territories from an Allied invasion.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Pozosta\u0142o\u015bci po Wale Atlantyckim w okolicach Grenen \/ The remnants of the Atlantic Wall near Grenen.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

W ko\u0144cu docieram na koniec Danii. Jest pi\u0119knie, ale to co widz\u0119 (a czego nie ma na zdj\u0119ciu) sprawia \u017ce szybko zaczynam biec z powrotem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En: Finally, I reach the end of Denmark. It’s beautiful, but what I see (and what’s not in the picture) makes me quickly start running back.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Maciek na ko\u0144cu Danii (Grenen) \/ Maciek at the end of Denmark (Grenen)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
To widz\u0119 robi\u0105c selfie na Grenen \/ This is what I see while taking a selfie at Grenen.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Zaczyna kropi\u0107. Pada\u0107. La\u0107. Istne urwanie chmury. S\u0142abo, my\u015bl\u0119. Kolubryna i tak zmoknie bo zostawi\u0142em j\u0105 na parkingu 1 km st\u0105d. Ale ja mam ze soba dokumenty i telefon w torebce, kt\u00f3rej wodoszczelno\u015bci nie chcia\u0142bym testowa\u0107 akurat dzi\u015b. Widz\u0119 jaki\u015b traktor z zabudowan\u0105 przyczep\u0105. Podbiegam i rzucam: na parking? Na parking. Ile? 20 DKK. Mo\u017cna kart\u0105? Mo\u017cna. Uff. Udaje si\u0119, 20 minut p\u00f3\u017aniej jestem na parkingu. Us\u0142uga nazywa si\u0119 Sandormen i wozi turyst\u00f3w mi\u0119dzy parkingiem a Grenen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En: It starts drizzling. Then raining. Then pouring. A real downpour. “This is bad,” I think. Kolubryna will get soaked anyway because I left her in the parking lot 1 km away. But I have my documents and phone in a bag, whose waterproofness I don’t want to test today. I see a tractor with an enclosed trailer. I run up and ask, “To the parking lot?” “To the parking lot.” “How much?” “20 DKK.” “Can I pay by card?” “Yes.” Phew. It works out, and 20 minutes later, I’m at the parking lot. The service is called Sandormen and transports tourists between the parking lot and Grenen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sandormen (zdj\u0119cie z Wikipedii) \/ Sandormen (photo from Wikipedia)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Co prawda wci\u0105\u017c leje, ale mam tu wodoodporne sakwy i kurtk\u0119 przeciwdeszczow\u0105. Jest pole manewru.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En: Even though it’s still pouring, I have waterproof panniers and a rain jacket. There’s some room to maneuver.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Kolubryna w deszczu \/ Kolubryna in the rain<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Pozostaje jeszcze dojecha\u0107 do wiaty turystycznej, bo dzisiejszy plan przewiduje nocowanie w lesie. Przeje\u017cd\u017cam raptem 1 kilometr i wychodzi s\u0142o\u0144ce. Patrz\u0119 w g\u00f3r\u0119, ani \u015bladu chmur. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

En: I still need to reach the tourist shelter because tonight’s plan is to camp in the forest. I ride just 1 kilometer, and the sun comes out. I look up, and there’s no trace of clouds.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aha, my\u015bl\u0119 sobie, to tak dzia\u0142a pogoda w Danii. Zanotowane. Jak to by\u0142o? Cz\u0142owiek uczy si\u0119 ca\u0142e \u017cycie?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En: Aha, I think to myself, so that’s how the weather works in Denmark. Noted. How does the saying go? You learn something new every day?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Suszenie dobytku na dachu wiaty \/ Drying my belongings on the roof of the shelter.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Dania i pierwsza prawdziwa ulewa.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":183,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[4],"class_list":["post-203","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized","tag-danmark"],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/06\/img_6646.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/203","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=203"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/203\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/183"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=203"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=203"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=203"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}