{"id":529,"date":"2026-07-30T16:27:27","date_gmt":"2026-07-30T16:27:27","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/2026\/07\/30\/dzien-11-karlshamn-friseboda\/"},"modified":"2026-07-30T16:41:28","modified_gmt":"2026-07-30T16:41:28","slug":"dzien-11-karlshamn-friseboda","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/2026\/07\/30\/dzien-11-karlshamn-friseboda\/","title":{"rendered":"Dzie\u0144 11: Karlshamn – Friseboda"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Dzisiejszy etap up\u0142yn\u0105\u0142 pod znakiem s\u0142o\u0144ca, wiatru i nieko\u0144cz\u0105cych si\u0119 p\u00f3l. Rano jecha\u0142o si\u0119 bardzo przyjemnie, ale po po\u0142udniu wiatr coraz mocniej dawa\u0142 si\u0119 we znaki. Ka\u017cdy kolejny kilometr kosztowa\u0142 troch\u0119 wi\u0119cej wysi\u0142ku, a \u015brednia stopniowo spada\u0142a, mimo to pogoda dopisywa\u0142a. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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EN: Today\u2019s stage was all about sun, wind, and endless fields. The morning ride was smooth and pleasant, but by the afternoon the wind was getting stronger and stronger. Every kilometre took a bit more effort, and my average speed gradually dropped. Still, the weather held up well. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Po przekroczeniu granicy Skanii krajobraz wyra\u017anie si\u0119 zmieni\u0142. Zamiast ska\u0142 i las\u00f3w pojawi\u0142y si\u0119 ogromne pola. \u0141any zb\u00f3\u017c ci\u0105gn\u0119\u0142y si\u0119 po horyzont i chwilami czu\u0142em si\u0119, jakbym jecha\u0142 przez jedno wielkie z\u0142ote morze. To zupe\u0142nie inna Szwecja ni\u017c ta, kt\u00f3r\u0105 widzia\u0142em jeszcze kilka dni temu. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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EN: After crossing into Scania, the landscape changed noticeably. The rocks and forests gave way to vast fields. Waves of grain stretched out to the horizon and at times it felt as if I were cycling across one endless golden sea. It\u2019s a completely different Sweden from the one I saw just a few days ago.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Po drodze mija\u0142em te\u017c jezioro Iv\u00f6sj\u00f6n, najwi\u0119ksze jezioro w Skanii. Sama nazwa najprawdopodobniej pochodzi od starodu\u0144skiego s\u0142owa oznaczaj\u0105cego cis, drzewa, kt\u00f3re kiedy\u015b ros\u0142y tu licznie. Z dawnymi cisami wi\u0105\u017ce si\u0119 te\u017c legenda o diable uwi\u0119zionym pod ich ga\u0142\u0119ziami, kt\u00f3ry obieca\u0142, \u017ce nigdy wi\u0119cej nie b\u0119dzie nawiedza\u0142 tej okolicy. Dla mnie jednak jezioro by\u0142o wa\u017cne z zupe\u0142nie innego powodu. Wiele lat temu m\u00f3j tata by\u0142 tu na wyprawie w\u0119dkarskiej i cz\u0119sto o niej opowiada\u0142. Mnie wtedy z nim nie by\u0142o, wi\u0119c dzi\u015b po raz pierwszy zobaczy\u0142em to miejsce na w\u0142asne oczy. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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EN: Along the way I also passed Lake Iv\u00f6sj\u00f6n, the largest lake in Scania. Its name most likely comes from an old Danish word meaning yew, a tree that once grew in abundance here. There\u2019s also an old legend about the devil being trapped under the branches of those ancient yews, promising never to haunt the area again. But for me, the lake was special for a completely different reason. Many years ago my dad came here on a fishing trip and often talked about it. I wasn\u2019t with him back then, so today was the first time I saw this place with my own eyes. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\u015aniadanie zjad\u0142em w hotelu w Brom\u00f6lli. Sama miejscowo\u015b\u0107 sprawia\u0142a wra\u017cenie zupe\u0142nie wymar\u0142ej i nie uda\u0142o mi si\u0119 znale\u017a\u0107 ani jednej otwartej kawiarni. To kolejny raz, kiedy przekona\u0142em si\u0119, \u017ce hotelowe bufety to jedno z najlepszych odkry\u0107 tej wyprawy. W Szwecji wystarczy po prostu wej\u015b\u0107, zap\u0142aci\u0107 i mo\u017cna spokojnie zje\u015b\u0107, nawet je\u015bli nie jest si\u0119 go\u015bciem. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

EN: I had breakfast at a hotel in Brom\u00f6lla. The town itself felt completely deserted and I couldn\u2019t find a single caf\u00e9 that was open. This was yet another time when I realised that hotel breakfast buffets are one of the best discoveries of this trip. In Sweden, you can just walk in, pay, and enjoy a proper breakfast, even if you\u2019re not staying there.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dalsz\u0105 tras\u0119 pokonywa\u0142em swoj\u0105 metod\u0105 chrupania kilometr\u00f3w. Dziel\u0119 sobie dystans na dziesi\u0119ciokilometrowe odcinki i po prostu jad\u0119 od dziesi\u0105tki do dziesi\u0105tki. Wtedy droga mija szybciej i nawet nie wiadomo kiedy, kolejne kilometry same si\u0119 nawijaj\u0105. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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EN: I covered the rest of the route using my own method, what I call \u201ccrunching the kilometres.\u201d I split the distance into ten-kilometre segments and just ride from one to the next. It makes the road pass more quickly, and before I know it, another ten kilometres is done.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Pierwotnie planowa\u0142em zako\u0144czy\u0107 dzie\u0144 w Kristianstad, ale kiedy tam dotar\u0142em, szybko zmieni\u0142em zdanie. Miasto by\u0142o pe\u0142ne ludzi, trwa\u0142 jaki\u015b festiwal \u2013 g\u0142o\u015bno, t\u0142oczno, kolorowo. Wystarczy\u0142o kilka minut, \u017cebym zrozumia\u0142, \u017ce to nie na dzi\u015b. Uzupe\u0142ni\u0142em tylko wod\u0119 i pojecha\u0142em dalej. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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EN: My original plan was to end the day in Kristianstad, but when I got there, I quickly changed my mind. The city was full of people, some kind of festival with noise, crowds, and colours everywhere. A few minutes were enough to realise it wasn\u2019t for today. I just refilled my water and moved on.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Kristianstad powsta\u0142o w 1614 roku z inicjatywy du\u0144skiego kr\u00f3la Chrystiana IV. Nic dziwnego \u2013 w tamtych czasach ca\u0142a Skania nale\u017ca\u0142a jeszcze do Danii. Miasto od pocz\u0105tku planowano jako nowoczesn\u0105 twierdz\u0119, kt\u00f3ra mia\u0142a broni\u0107 tych teren\u00f3w przed Szwecj\u0105. Dopiero po pokoju w Roskilde w 1658 roku znalaz\u0142o si\u0119 w granicach Szwecji. Spaceruj\u0105c tam \u0142atwo zapomnie\u0107, \u017ce przez d\u0142ugi czas by\u0142o to po prostu du\u0144skie miasto. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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EN: Kristianstad was founded in 1614 by the Danish King Christian IV. That\u2019s no surprise, since at that time all of Scania still belonged to Denmark. The city was designed from the beginning as a modern fortress to defend these lands against Sweden. It wasn\u2019t until the Treaty of Roskilde in 1658 that Kristianstad, along with the rest of Scania, became part of Sweden. Walking around today, it\u2019s easy to forget that for a long time it was simply a Danish town.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Zagadka: jak przeczytaliby\u015bcie nazw\u0119 Kristianstad? Pytanie podchwytliwe, Szwedzi te\u017c nie wiedz\u0105.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

EN: How would you pronounce the name Kristianstad? Tricku question, even Sweden don\u2019t know how to do it right.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Odpowied\u017a \/ answer: https:\/\/youtu.be\/14M6_z8FKEE<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Po drodze spotka\u0142em te\u017c dw\u00f3ch bikepacker\u00f3w. Jeden z nich by\u0142 z Czech i jecha\u0142 tras\u0105 bardzo podobn\u0105 do mojej, tylko w drug\u0105 stron\u0119 \u2013 z Gda\u0144ska do \u015awinouj\u015bcia. Ostrzeg\u0142 mnie, \u017ce po polskiej stronie nie b\u0119dzie ju\u017c tak wygodnie jak tutaj. M\u00f3wi\u0142 o gorszych nawierzchniach, o odcinkach, gdzie musia\u0142 prowadzi\u0107 rower, o t\u0142oku na trasach. Podobno dwa razy wymienia\u0142 \u0142a\u0144cuch. To ju\u017c druga osoba, kt\u00f3ra m\u00f3wi mi co\u015b podobnego, wi\u0119c zaczynam si\u0119 zastanawia\u0107, jak b\u0119d\u0105 wygl\u0105da\u0142y te ostatnie kilometry wyprawy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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EN: Along the way, I also met two bikepackers. One of them was from the Czech Republic and was riding a very similar route to mine, but in the opposite direction \u2013 from Gda\u0144sk to \u015awinouj\u015bcie. He warned me that on the Polish side, things aren\u2019t as smooth as here. He talked about rough surfaces, sections where he had to push his bike, and crowded routes. He said he\u2019d had to replace his chain twice. That\u2019s the second person to tell me something like this, so I\u2019m starting to wonder what those final kilometres of the journey will be like. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Na noc zatrzyma\u0142em si\u0119 w rezerwacie przyrody Friseboda. Wiedzia\u0142em, \u017ce przy shelterze mo\u017cna rozbi\u0107 namiot i faktycznie sta\u0142o tam ju\u017c kilka. Rozbi\u0142em sw\u00f3j prawie na samej pla\u017cy. Od dawna chodzi\u0142a mi po g\u0142owie taka noc tu\u017c nad morzem i wreszcie si\u0119 uda\u0142o. Jutro czeka mnie ostatni szwedzki etap: do Ystad, sk\u0105d pop\u0142yn\u0119 ju\u017c promem do \u015awinouj\u015bcia. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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EN: Tonight I\u2019m staying at the Friseboda nature reserve. I knew you could camp near the shelter, and there were already a few tents there. I pitched mine almost right on the beach. I\u2019d been thinking about spending a night right by the sea for a while, and finally made it happen. Tomorrow, I\u2019ll ride my final Swedish stage to Ystad, where I\u2019ll take the ferry to \u015awinouj\u015bcie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Skania: zbo\u017ce i morze.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":528,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[3],"class_list":["post-529","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized","tag-sverige"],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/img_7197.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/529","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=529"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/529\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":530,"href":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/529\/revisions\/530"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/528"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=529"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=529"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mczerwonka.pl\/maciek-jedzie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=529"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}